Barbours, Wellies, and Wine

2001 Napa Cabernet Retrospective

2011-11-02T19:23:00.003-07:00

With the 2011 Napa vintage being unofficially declared a “difficult” vintage with low yields, low brix, and several weeks behind in harvest, it was a pleasure to taste half a dozen Napa wines from the 2001 vintage. Unlike this current vintage; ten years ago, 2001 was universally declared “excellent” with minimal rainfall, no seasonal heat spikes, and an upside-down year with a warmer than usual spring and a cooler summer. Ten years on it was great to see the provenance of the region and its wine demonstrating the benefits of ageing.

Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cab Franc, 11% Merlot)

Ruby red with cedar resin, cassis, and subtle herbal notes on nose. Medium-bodied with soft tannins, cedar, plum, black pepper and herbally CF notes. Long finish and drinking nicely now and for another 3-4 years. Release price $50 US

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (76% Cabernet, 75% New French Barrique)

Ruby purple (youthful). Restrained nose that opened over an hour to reveal black cherry, sweet spices, and a hint of earth. Elegant structure, the most Bordelaise of the flight, with perfect balance of tannins, fruit, and acidity. Full-bodied with cassis, spice, black-cherry, pencil graphite, and hints of pepper. Release price $100 US

Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select, Stags Leap District (100% Cabernet)

Dense purple colour with aromas of cedar, toast, and licorice. Full-bodied and concentrated with lush glycerol like tannins and loads of cassis, cedar resin, wood smoke and hints of chocolate. Youthful but so delightful to drink now; should age another decade at least . Very long finish.

Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard Oakville (100% CS, organically farmed)

Ruby purple with complex secondary aromas of tobacco leaf, kirsch, and eucalyptus. Full-bodied and concentrated, bigger and more tannic than the Shafer, with youthful ripe black cherry, mint, gout de pencil, and black plum notes. Should cellar another decade or more. Release price $100 US

Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

Ruby red, showing the most age of the flight, with aromas of sweet fruit compote, and Asiatic spice. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, and juicy mulberry fruit and layers of warm Asian spice. Drinking nicely now. Release price $50 US

Cain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District

Ruby purple with lots of toast aromas. Medium bodied with mellowing tannins and layers of cedar, mocha, coffee, raspberry, and complex spices on the finish. Release price $90 US

Stylistically The Bordelaise like Clos du Val was a personal favourite with the Heitz and Shafer showing the terror, benchmarks, and textbook descriptors of Napa. All these wines would be perfect Autumn and winter drinking with hearty meat dishes to cut the tannin content. www.napavintners.com

Oxtail Stew and 3 Old Spaniards

2010-11-18T17:31:00.006-08:00

With the cooler Autumn weather arriving I've been using the slow cooker and sous vide to create some hearty wintery dishes. This week Helen and I cooked an eight hour oxtail stew inspired by Spain's Rabo de Toro paired with three old vine Spanish reds. For the stew the addition of dark chocolate adds a lot of richness and wine complimenting ability. The basic recipe including liberties we took based on in house ingredients for two was:

1 lb oxtails (browned on the grill)
10 pearl onions
1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely diced
1 small Spanish onion, diced
1 medium carrot peeled and diced
1/2 red bell pepper, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
2 diced tomatoes
3 small white potatoes (halved)
1 tbsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp paprika
1 tbsp thyme
1 tsp oregano
2 bay leaves
1.5 oz 70% dark chocolate (microplaned)
1 cup beef stock
1 cup dry red wine (used 1/3 of each reds to make a cup)
salt and pepper to taste
Cook in a slow cooker on HIGH for 6 hours and SIMMER for two or more.

I went with an Spanish Old Vine budget theme for the wine pairings to include the 2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla, Bodegas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yelca and the Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garancha 2007 all easly available in the BC marketplace.

2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla $16.99
Old Vine Monastrell 98%

Dark purple colour with aromas of smoke, hay (floral) , spice, and dark berries. Medium-bodied to full-bodied with soft tannins for 2-3 years cellaring potential with flavours of mulberry, blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry. Subtle notes of hay and mineral in the mid palate and a long berry and savoury hay/earthy and liquorice finish. Well balanced with decent acidity and alcohol levels.

Bodgeas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yecla $9.50
40 – 60 year old vine Monastrell

Ruby purple with black pepper and blueberry aromas. Medium to full-bodied with lush plum, blueberry, and savoury almost meaty hints on the nose. Medium to full-bodied with lush texture and flavours of ripe berry (carbonic maceration?) layered by hints of game, fresh black pepper,cherry, and a bit of dark chocolate.

Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garnacha Navarra 2007 $13.99
Old Vine (vines between 60- 100 years old) 55% Tempranillo and 45% garnacha

Ruby purple colour with aromas of maraschino cherry and plum. Medium-bodied with red plum, chocolate, and fruit compote notes finishing with some rustic chewy tannins - good food wine.

All three wines worked well with the hearty and rustic stew. Like your dinner guests, the Bodegas Olivares is a classy great value wine on its own or with the oxtail. The La Castona with its pepper, meaty, and chocolate notes was the perfect foodie friend pairing and best overal pair with the oxtail; while Red Guitar is like your sexy hipster friend which everyone enjoyed.

Iberico Ham: The New Pig On The Block

2010-11-15T20:50:00.005-08:00

Today was a perfect rainy day in Vancouver to drop by Cafe Barcelona to taste a variety of hams with Antonio Padilla and his wife of Iberico Spain http://www.ibericospain.com/index.php featuring the products of Embutidos Y Jamones Fermin. Antonio is the BC distributor of Iberian ham products. Iberian Bellota has only been available in Western Canada for the last year. If you were lucky you’d find it on the charcuterie plates at Salt, Judas Goat, and les amis du Fromage; hopefully that will change sooner rather than later for Vancouver foodies. It is still easier to find Kobe beef or Iranian caviar here than this exquisite Spanish meat.

Antonio Padilla of Iberico Spain

A small group of restaurateurs and media gathered to taste four Iberico products from Antonio’s portfolio with a glass of accompanying Vina Albali. Antonio offered samples of his Salchichon Iberico sausage – a slicing sausage reminiscent of salami in appearance seasoned with salt and pepper and a with a silky melt in the mouth texture and subtle sweetness. The Chorizo Iberico Extra, minced loin and fat with pimento and garlic, was mildly spicy with sweet nutty undertones and a smooth texture. The Lomo Iberico de Bellota, an air-cured loin marinated with salt and pimento, was very lean, rich and with a subtle smoky nutty taste; while the Iberico Bellota was a stunner with its melt in your mouth texture, savoury yet sweet flavour and lingering mid palate to finish nuttiness. Expensive but a little goes along way.

So what makes this ham so special? Regular Iberian ham is aged a minimum of two years much longer than most ham we purchase at supermarkets or deli's. The Iberico Bellota is aged a minimum of 24 to 36 months, sometimes over four years, and has its provenance in its production. These hams are produced from free range Pata Negra (black hoof) pigs that feast on tree fallen acorns, gorging on up to ten kilo's per day until they double in weight before off to the slaughter. The curing process takes a minimum of two years during which time the antioxidant quality of the acorns changes saturated fat into mono-unsaturated fats with higher levels of oleic acid than olive oil. So eat more Spanish ham, wine, and olive oil!

If at home or the restaurant; some Iberian ham and drink pairings I would recommend are the Estrella Damm inedit, a Spanish beer, with Salchichon Iberico sausage - a nice balance of wheat--lager beer that balances the sweetness of the sausage. A good quality Cava will partner well with the Chorizo Iberico Extra balancing out the fattiness and nutty flavours. Lomo Iberico de Bellota will pair exquisitey with a well crafted Cidra (dry cider) or with a selecton of cheeses try a Gran Reserva Rioja to complement the smokey/nutty notes with the aged flavours of the wine. The Iberico Bellota is a must with another Spanish superstar - Sherry; try a fresh dry Fino with the montagna y mer "mountain and sea combination" of saltiness, sweetness, and complexity. How fitting the noblest ham in the world is with Sherry - a classic combination that must be tried.

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

2010-03-09T12:08:00.020-08:00

Altitude, Latitude, & Cool Climates

With the 32nd annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wines Festival just around the corner, April 1th to 25th, I had the opportunity to attend a media preview of two of the regional theme partners ~ Argentina and New Zealand and taste over 70 wines from both nations.

Wine Festival Regional Theme Highlights

250 wines from Argentina and New Zealand
36 Argentinean wineries
40 New Zealand wineries

Argentina Wine Facts
225,000 ha vineyards, 7 regions
Malbec – Iconic varietal
Torrontes – native varietal to watch

New Zealand Wine Facts
31,000 ha vineyards, 10 regions
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – Iconic varietal
Central Otago Pinot Noir – varietal to watch

At the preview tasting hosted by the Shore Club I was extremely impressed by Argentina’s aromatic whites from the native Torrontes varietal (think Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Viognier) and not surprised by the quality and complexity of many of her Malbecs. Argentina maybe the hot blooded land of the Tango and Paso Dobo but a combination of latitude and high altitude “cool macro and micro climates” the vineyards create wines of excellent ripe fruit forward style but balanced by crisp acidity. While working your way through the tasting room in April look out for the Luigi Bosa Finca La Linda Torrontes 2009 – one of my preview favourites. Straw green with intense lychee like aromas of rose and flowers. Medium-bodied, richly textured with crisp balancing acidity, and complex flavours of nutmeg, peach, lychee, and ripe pear. Excellent value!

An iconic Malbec to try will be the Graffigna Reserve Malbec 2006; aged 12 months in equal amounts of French and American it is Ruby red in colour with aromas of cedar, chocolate and plum. On the palate it is full-bodied, lush, and loaded with lovely flavours of black plum, chocolate, and warm exotic spice (cinnamon and clove).
Outside of the world’s fascination with Malbec some great blends are being conceived. The Masi Tupungato Corbec 2007 is such a beast. 70% Corvina (Veneto Italy varietal) and 30% Malbec under going appassimento for 22 days along with 18 months in medium toasted French barrique. This dense ruby-red coloured blend has complex aromas of ripe sweet mulberry and blueberry and on its full-bodied and round palate notes of cherry kirsch, chocolate, and subtle leafy herbs dominate. Tasty and fascinating. Also search out the Vina Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon Lujan de Cuyo 2007 this 100% hand harvested Cabernet Sauvignon is wild yeast fermented and aged 18 months in a combination of American and French oak (37% new). It is ruby red in colour with complex aromas of milk chocolate and cedar resin. Full-bodied with some lush tannins, and flavours of cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco.

New Zealand home of Sauvignon Blanc and increasingly great cool climate Pinot Noir is a nice antipodean bridge to Argentina at this year’s wine festival. A Sauvignon Blanc that caught my attention included the unusual Mt. Riley Savee 2008 Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc. This 100% Marlbourough Sauvignon Blanc under goes traditional bottle fermentation to produce a supercharged fizzy SB. It is pale straw in colour with decent sized bubbles and pungent aromas of passion fruit, capsicum, and wild black currants. The bubbly is medium-bodied and crisp with gooseberry, nectarine, and typical but subdued capsicum hints. A tasty match for steamed Chinese seafood or Japanese uni. At the preview tasting I had opportunity to taste flights of Pinot Noir from the 06 through 08 vintages. The 07 vintage showed very well. Seek out the 2007 Gibbston Highgate Soultaker Central Otago Pinot Noir, a cold soaked and French oak aged Pinot with complex Burgundian aspirations but full-bodied with smoke, earth, wild aromatic herbs, and cherry like flavours. Beautifully crafted PN. Also try the Spy Valley Marlborough Envoy Pinot Noir 2007 with its wild yeast fermentation and 18 months of French barrique ageing was a dynamite drop with layers of earth, forest wood smoke, and Burgundian styling wrapped around its full-bodied structure and style. Look for Spy Valley on the tasting room floor! Away from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir check out the Bordeaux blends from the North island. The Paritua “Red” 2007 Hawkes Bay Cabernet-Merlot was a great find. This four varietal blend, mainly Cabernet ~ Merlot, and a 99 barrique run is ruby red in colour with new oak and cedar resin aromas. On the palate it is full-bodied with lush round tannins (3-5 years ageing potential) and lovely flavours of blackcurrant leaf, olive, ripe cherry, spice, and intriguing herbal notes.

Enjoy the wine festival this year! 1700 wines, 197 wineries, 61 events, 7 days and 25,000 wine lovers

Details and tickets at http://www.playhousewinefest.com/

Fenadegas A9 Portugal Wine Tasting

2010-03-04T10:59:00.012-08:00

I recently had the pleasure of re-exploring the wines of Portugal at a trade tasting in Vancouver featuring the wines of Fenadegas Adegas Cooperativas De Portugal also known as A9. This cooperative represents 27 wineries, 15,000 producers, and approximately 20% of all Portuguese production including a staggering 70% of all Moscatel production. A9 controls 22,000 ha of vineyards and exports 13 million bottles of wines annually with wines from all 8 mainland wine regions. Far from mediocrity; this cooperative has some wonderful and well priced wines highlighting the indigenous varietals of Portugal with a modern twist.

Portugal Highlights
575 miles long – 138 miles wide
500,000 acres of vineyards
200 varietals
Low yields of 5 gallons/acre
Wine Classifications: Vinho de Mesa, Vinho Regional, VDPQRD
Varietal to watch: Touriga Nacional

The trade event started with a luncheon created by Chef Dino Renaerts of the Met Hotel paired with six wines from A9.

Bacalhau with potatoes and soft poached egg

Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho 2008 Vinho Verde
Pale green with lime and floral aromas. Medium-bodied, crisp, and complex with flavours of green apple, lime and mineral. Reminiscent of a Clare Valley Riesling

Herb crusted baked clams with fennel butter

Adega Cooperativa de Almerm Planicle White 2009 Tejo
Straw green colour with lovely aromas of banana and glace fruits. Full-bodied, rich and lush in texture with glace pear, guava, pineapple, and banana notes. Reminds me of a well made Marsanne-Roussane.

Sea scallops with lobster essence

Adega Pegoes Select Harvest White 2009 – Peninsula de Setubal
Straw green with subtle tropical and coconut aromas. Full-bodied and lush with coconut, tropical fruit, spice, and some malo undertones.

Cozido, chourico & salt pork stew

Caves Vale do Rodo Cabeca de Burro Reserve Red 2007 – Dao
Ruby red with cedar, resin, and earthy agave aromas. Medium-bodied with some tannins and juicy warm fruit notes of plum, strawberry, and cedar.

Grilled lamb chops with fig jus

UDACA Red 2004 – Dao
Ruby red with typical fig Dao aromas. Medium to full-bodied with soft grained tannins, ripe fruit, and lush figgy notes and texture.

Spanish Cheese with quince & toasted nuts

Caves Santa Marta Vintage Port 2004 Douro
Dense purple and youthful colour and orange and fruitcake aromas. Medium-bodied and elegant style Port with sweet blackberry, spice, mulberry, and fruit cake flavours. A tasty feminine styled Port.

On the trade room floor tasting it became oblivious that A9 really shines with its single varietal Vinho Verde, Touriga Nacional (UDCA),Tawny Ports (Caves Santa Marta) and the red and white wines from Pegoes on the Setubal peninsula. Portugal proves that indigenousity, creativity, and value are the hallmarks and provenance for this region in an ever more homogenised wine world.

LOST in Wine

2010-02-02T13:07:00.012-08:00

The final season and hopefully answers to every one's questions will be resolved in season 6. My plan of attack, take Tuesday's off and open a bottle of wine, to accompany the series. Looking at the complicated, convoluted, and mind numbing characteristics of the main characters I've paired them up with a wine to help with the sensory overload. Show details at ABC

Richard Alpert, leader of the Others and seemingly ageless time traveller

Try a great Bordeaux with some bottle age or a mature Chateau Musar or Rioja Gran Reserva. These wines seem fitting for a complex and long lived character.

Kate Austen Bouncing between the country boy Saywer and city professional Jack

A Primativo suits Kate acting as a bridge between the new and old world.

Juliet Burke a complex character playing a fertility doctor and a mechanic through time travel. Played both sides with the Others and survivors.

A classy Australian Riesling from the Clare or Eden Valley with its complex layered flavours, zesty acidity, and refreshing lime cordial notes.

Daniel Faraday an Oxford intellectual killed by his mother while travelling through time and space.

Choose a vintage Champagne for its complexity

Desmond David Hume The one character who actually had a wine scene involving wine production and retail. This seafaring Scot has a knack for sailing and not losing his cool pressing buttons every 108 minutes. The Royal Scots Regiment conjures thoughts of a peaty iodine scented whiskey but for wine try a complex white.

Caymus Conundrum.... a puzzle and a great multi -grape Californian blend.

Sayid Jarrah A former republican Guard with a spot for stiff drinks and a complex character both working for Ben then trying kill him as a child in a time travel segment

Try a complex Pinot Noir from the Burgundy or Central Otago in South Island of New Zealand

Sun-Hwa Kwon The rich daughter of a magnate with Korean mob ties. She gets pregnant on the Island and suffers with the knowledge of unsuccessful pregnancies on the island.

A complex and confident Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with its intense aromas and flavours.

James Sawyer A confidence man with a lot of anti-social behaviour throughout most of the show.

Try a big new world red, not necessarily complex, something Australian like Yellow Tail or Wolf Blass.

Frank Lapidus The pilot originally scheduled to fly Oceanic 815 but flys Flight 316 in the future. Easy going character who seems indifferent to crashing on the Island.

Try a soft uncomplicated red such as Beaujolais

Benjamin Linus The manipulative leader of the Others and John Locke's murderer.

I'd recommend a Fino Sherry. Under appreciated, complex to make, and a refreshing change to the norm.

John Locke A man of faith and the new chosen leader of the Others. Killed by Ben in the 5th season and now apparently resurrected but with the soul of Jacob's rival.

Try a rose - preferably dry and from a Southern French varietal. Another wine style like Sherry that needs a boast of faith with consumers.

Hugo Hurley Reyes Winning the lottery brought nothing but bad luck. What’s in his guitar case? and what’s up with the winning lotto numbers?

Hugo's love of junk food means a big fruit forward, oak aged and malo influenced Chardonnay, from Australia or the USA. What else pairs well with popcorn?

Jack Shephard A neurosurgeon, leader of the survivor’s, and suicidal character.

Try a complex dessert wine like Sauternes or Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos. Something with ripe fruit and botrytis.

Miles Straume A spiritualist who is able to read the thoughts of the recently departed and son of Dr. Pierre Chang.

Pair up with a South African Chenin Blanc. Dry, crisp, and complex

Charles Widmore A wealthy industrialist and former leader of the Others in the 1950's.

A boutique or garage Napa Cabernet Sauvignon or Meritage would pair well.

Jacob A complex ageless character that has touched all of the survivors and the Others throughout the timeline.

A complex white Burgundy with 5-8 years ageing. Layers of mineral, honey, and nutty undertones needed for this one.

Vincent The yellow Labrador retriever that time shifts with various survivor’s and looks somewhat like his “owner”? - Jacob...clutching straws with that one!

Fresh water; maybe a Voss on the final episode

Enjoy the final season of this intriguing show.

Two Wines, A Beer, & a Slow Cooker

2010-01-12T15:35:00.080-08:00

With the arrival of winter thoughts spring to mind of braised meats, soups, and stews. We seriously thought of a home sous vide machine http://www.sousvedesupreme.com/ this year; but with our small loft kitchen footprint, a $500 price tag, and need for extra equipment such as a vacuum sealer we opted for a modern version of a slow cooker. We picked up a Cuisinart PSC-650C, a programmable slick stainless steel unit with a capacity of 6.5 quarts (7.1 litres) for just over $100 CDN it is ideal for two but has the flexibility to cook for half a dozen. Over the last fortnight I've adjusted a few recipes to cook for two. Immediately after Christmas we decided Boxing Day needed to involve seafood. Cioppino and bouillabaisse came to mind and this recipe is a bridge between the two with some local west coast liberties thrown in. Wine of choice for this recipe was old world and a dry white from Bordeaux. I picked the dry white wine from the Grand Cru Sauternes Producer Chateau Guiraud to pair with the seafood stew. The wine produced from 40 year old hand harvested Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from a 15 ha parcel of the 100 ha of vineyard spends close to nine months in barrique. The structure & acidity in this wine pairs extremely well with the tomato acidity in the broth while the tropical flavour profile bridges the herbal saffron notes and the richness of the Semillon blends and balances with the texture of the halibut and salmon. All round a perfect match balancing texture and flavours.

G. de Chateau Guiraud 2007. Pale straw green colour with intense aromas of passion fruit, lime, and lemon.It is full-bodied,concentrated, and well balanced with crisp acidity and very complex flavours mirroring the nose along with guava, gooseberry, and spice, and lime leaf. $31.99 CDN

Our 2nd meal in the slow cooker revolved around Redbro chicken in a classic Coq au Vin paired with a declassified Chauteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Pegau Plan Pegau Lot 2007. This non vintage wine is made from a field blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and a Merlot sourced from the edges of CNP Plan Pegau Lot 2007 Laurence Feraud Ruby red with aromas of briar, game, and wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied with a rich mouth feel, tannins for 3-4 years ageing, and complex flavours of pepper, blackcurrant, autumnal wood smoke, gout de garrigue, and subtle leathery game notes. Good length and balance. $27 at http://www.vitiwinelagers.com/ The wine was a perfect pair with the coq au vin with the gout de garrigue flavours of the wine bridging the fresh thyme, pepper,and and bacon notes. The structure balanced the texture of the chicken and mushrooms and the tannin cut down the influences of the tomato and the lardons.

Helen picked up a bottle of Spanish beer for Christmas, the Estrella Damm and Ferran Adria colloboration "Estrella Damm Inedit" which is according to the marketing a beer designed to pair with difficult foods i.e. asparagus, artichokes, citrus fruits, and vinegars as well as with fatty proteins like salmon, tuna, and cheese. The beer itself is a blend of a lager and a wheat ale. The wheat element contains, like many wheat beers, coriander and orange. This beer was paired up with a slow cooked Thai green curry with some wild BC salmon. Estrella Damm Inedit Cloudy yellow gold with a fine light head and some lacing. Aromas of orange, mild banana, and wheat. Light to medium-bodied with a light carbonation and flavours of white peach, subtle pineapple, orange, and wheat. Nice balance of malts and hops. 4.8% abv $5.97 CDN 750ml The beer was a great foil to the spice and heat of the green curry and the mild tropical flavour profile was an excellent compliment to the lime, coconut milk, and baby corn.

Legends of the Fall: Squash Meets Malts

2009-10-25T21:54:00.015-07:00

Autumn nights, hearty beers, and fall cuisine can only mean one thing; the return of small batch pumpkin ale production. This year I only had the opportunity to taste three Pumpkin based ales; two bottled and one draught.

Although we may look at pumpkin ale as a novelty it no doubt placed a principle role in beer production during the first influx of pilgrims and colonists to the new world with their lack of malt and barley production and future prohibitive cost of importing these beer making essentials from the old world. Modern pumpkin ale production as we know and taste it has been limited to the last two and half decades. Pumpkin ale? For me it falls into two distinct families: fresh pumpkin tasting (roasted or fresh pumpkin) or pumpkin pie tasting (emphasis on the addition of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice).

Steamwork's Brewing (British Columbia) Draught, The Great Pumpkin Ale, falls into the pumpkin pie school of beer profiles. Although tamer than past batches this beer is Amber coloured with little lacing. It is full-bodied, lightly carbonated, and loaded with sweet cinnamon, clove, all spice, and hints of ginger. For me one pint is enough.

The Brooklyn Brewing (New York) Post Road Pumpkin Ale (bottle) was tasted at Pourhouse. This ale was more of a bridge style between the fresh pumpkin family and pumpkin pie family of production. It is orange-amber colour, medium-bodied, more carbonated than the Steamwork's ale and had noticeable lacing and carbonated head. Aromas were leaning towards fresh pumpkin with overtones of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the palate the Post Road was drier and lighter in texture with more biscuit and malt than pumpkin flavours.

My favourite pumpkin ale this year based on the small selection I tried has to be the Vancouver Island Crooked Tooth Pumpkin Ale (bottle) from Philips Brewing. This amber gold coloured ale had a beautiful fresh pumpkin aroma, refreshing carbonation and nice lacing. It is medium-bodied and has perfectly balanced flavours with fresh cut pumpkin, all spice, and cinnamon. By far the best of the three this year. The Steamwork's Great Pumpkin Ale is ideally suited to drink solo with its inherent sweetness but could marry to pumpkin pie, maple glazed yams, honey glazed carrots, or white meat poulty. The Post Road will nicely pair with yam fries or pumpkin ale battered fish and chips. Phillip's Crooked Tooth Ale with its superb balance would make a good all round autumnal food beer - try with a squash risotto, maple glazed wild BC salmon, or candied beets.

Pourhouse Vancouver | Chef's Table Dinner

2009-10-14T17:32:00.058-07:00

Helen and I celebrated or 11th anniversary with dinner at the Chef's Table at Gastown's newest gastronomic hot spot Pourhouse. http://www.pourhousevancouver.com/ Our six course dinner took place in the kitchen, with it's heat, bursts of flame, the possibility of Chef Gordon Ramsay outbursts, the din of equipment, and the clatter and ting of plates and glassware, and watching the well honed brigade not only prepare our food but a full house of diners. Chef Chris Irving and Partner/Mixologist Jay Jones looked after us through our three and a half hours of cocktails, wine and food. Our amuse to start was a well constructed twist on the

classic Champagne cocktail. Mr. Jones' version was made from Moet et Chandon Brut, 5 year old Torres brandy, and peach bitters. 1st course was a selection of BC oysters (Kumamoto and Royal Miyage) with a red wine mignonette and fresh horseradish paired with a Last Word Cocktail (Tanqueray gin, Chartreuse, fresh lime, and Maraschino cherry liqueur). The sea saltiness of the oysters paired well with the herbal notes of the gin and Chartruese. 2nd course was a charcuterie/cheese plate from Fuel Restaurant's "The Cure" paired with the wonderful Escarpment The Edge Pinot Noir 2007 from Martinborough in New Zealand. This Pinot had a lovely texture and classic Pinot Noir notes of rhubarb, red cherry, spice, subtle oak, and hints of autumnal wood smoke and mushroomy earthiness. 3rd course was a beautifully flavoured leek and potato soup with smoked cod flakes. Mr. Jones paired this lusciously flavoured soup with the Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2008 from Australia. This fuller bodied version of the regular Viognier was richly textured and complexly layered with notes of apricot, honeysuckle, Mandarin orange, white peach, and a hint of sweet spice. For a rest between dishes Jay prepared a 1917 Aviation Cocktail (Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon, creme de voilette, and Maraschino Cherry liquor) a nice refreshing cocktail. 4th course crispy boneless turkey wing with braised celery, chorizo and cornmeal cake - this was paired with Jay's creative take on a Bloody Mary a.k.a "Brave Bull" (Maker's Mark Bourbon, tomato juice, turkey jus reduction, spice and Maldon sea salt).

Our main 5th course was a traditional lobster roll with creamed corn and Saratoga chips. This rich course was balanced by a refreshing Pike IPA Beer Float wth apple juice, Aztec chocolate bitters and a Donnafugata Nero d'Avola float. Our final course, Maker's Mark Bananas Foster with house made vanilla ice cream and sweet dough cookie was made by Chef Irving with lots of heat and flame in the kitchen. We brought along from our cellar a bottle of Chateau Rayne Vigneaux Sauternes 1er Cru from our wedding year 1998 which Jay kindly opened. The Sauternes was medium-bodied and full of apricot, pineapple, honey, subtle botrytis, and decent sugar and acidity - not overly rich or sweet but no complaints on the wine - it travelled with us through three countries back in 2006. Although we have eaten at Pourhouse several times since it's opening - the experience of the Chef's Table is not to be missed. The table seats four comfortable or six cosily. Service by Jay and Chris was nothing short of stellar. Sitting at the chef's table is an insight into front and back of house operations and if you enjoy watching cooking shows this is the real thing. Pourhouse is a beautiful looking restaurant with an emphasis on American comfort food and I detect a slight English influence (no doubt from Chef Irving's UK kitchen stints). The room is a luscious blend of rich woods, re-claimed architectural and industrial elements, and art deco influences. Cocktails are classic or a twist on classics with a short "There's" and "Ours" list all served in the "proper" glassware. Wine list bridges the new and old world with just under ten wines by the glass. Jay's love of draught shows with some great beer from Pike and Brooklyn and other interesting local and imports for your session drinking at the wood.

POURHOUSE VANCOUVER
162 Water St Vancouver

(604) 568-7022

Alois Lageder - Alpine Meets Mediterranean

2009-10-02T11:32:00.010-07:00

I recently had the opportunity to taste eight wines from Alois Lageder, the foremost Alto Adige producer, at an on-trade event at L’Altro Buca in Vancouver. The tasting and presentation was lead by director of sales Urs Vetter and organised by local wine agent blue note http://www.bluenotewines.com/ . The Alto Adige is a viticultural region of extremes; small - about the size of Chablis, a meso climate of cool alpine air and Mediterranean warmth (one of the five warmest regions in Italy) and a huge diurnal temperature drop due to a thermal inversion between 200 to 1200 metres in the wine growing valley. It's alluvial and scree deposited soils add complexity (Dolomitic limestone, gravel, and sandstone prevail) along with state of the art and forward thinking wine making under the fifty plus vintage by winemaker Luis von Dellemann create an iconic wine style that represents the Alto Adige.

http://www.aloislageder.eu/

Riff 2008 Pinot Grigio (IGT Venetzia)

Straw green with fresh pear and green apple aromas. Medium-bodied with good concentration, well balanced acidity and refreshing pear, mineral, and green apple flavours. Perfect with shellfish, trout, or cerviche.

Classic Pinot Bianco 2007

Straw yellow with a flinty and lanolin aroma. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and layered with apple, mineral, and subtle peach and alpine flower finish. Pair up with caprese salad, grilled asparagus, creamy mushroom pasta.

Benefizium Porer Pinot Grigio 2008

Single Vineyard Grigio (20-40 year old vines, chalky soils) with 80% stainless steel fermentation and ageing with 20% Allier oak ageing. Straw green with flinty, ripe pear, and peach aromas. Medium to full-bodied, concentration and crisp with ripe fruit salad notes - think a bowl of apple, pear, peach and fresh grapes. This one would be great with poultry, fleshy seafood, and charcuterie.

Beta-delta Chardonnay Pinot Grigio 2008

Certified Bioydynamic 50% each varietal. Straw green with mineral and tree fruit aromas. Medium-bodied with ripe Chardonnay fruit (pear, spice, Macintosh apple) and subtle sur lie notes. Perfect with salmon, scallops, or simple chicken dishes.

Classic Gewurztraminer 2008

Straw yellow with strong rose and subtle lychee aromas. Medium-bodied, dry and concentrated, with rose, spice, and subtle lychee flavours. Long finish of rose. Perfect pairing with pate, mild creamy blue cheese, and the mild curry.

Vogelmaier Moscato Giallo 2008

My favourite white on the tasting! Single Vineyard. Straw green with fresh grapey and peach sorbet aromas. Medium-bodied, rich and ripe, and full of delicious fresh sweet grape, peach, pear, and apricot. Well balanced, complex, and very tasty. Pair this one with a sushi rolls, Thai yellow curry, and BC spot prawns.

Lagrein Rosato 2008

Cherry copper colour with savoury and vegetal (tobacco) aromas. Medium-bodied, dry, with flavours of strawberry, hay, savoury herbs, tobacco, and subtle spice. Almost a Rhone Mourvedre in flavour. According to Urs this is the perfect all rounder to curry! any heat!

Krafuss Pinot Noir 2005 Estate Wine

Cherry red colour with a complex nose of earth, smoke, and oaky cedar resin (12 months in French oak - Allier, Nevers, and Vosges 1/3rd new). Medium-bodied with strawberry leaf, cherry, red currant, and added oak complexity with nice cedar notes in the finish.

Lindenberg Lagrein 2004 Estate Wine

Lagrein = Syrah possibly? Dense ruby purple colour with lovely chocolate, violet, and spice aromas. Full-bodied with some tannin (4-6 years ageing?) and concentrated structure wit flavours of dark chocolate, black currant leaf, and layers of spice. Almost a cross between the Rhone and Bordeaux! Perfect pairing with braised meats, stews, venison, or lamb.

Overall I found the aromatic whites the strong points from Alois Lageder and the tasting of the lagrein Rosato and Estate Lndenberg Lagrein where eye openers on the region and the varietal.
The Alto Adige looks amazingly beautiful and through a quirk of nature - climate and soils along with Germanic efficiency make this region one to watch.

Sauvignon and Tomatoes

2009-08-20T09:51:00.011-07:00

One of my favourite seasonal wine and food pairings is Sauvignon Blanc and tomatoes. This week after a short visit to the Main Street Farmer's Market in Vancouver I picked up a several heirloom ( heritage) tomatoes from Klipper Organic Farms http://www.klippersorganics.com/. Although there can be challenges pairing tomatoes with their high acidity and inherent sweetness with wine I find one of the most memorable matches to be with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The punchy fruit forward style, zest acidity, and herbal-tropical fruit flavour profile of these antipodean wines plays well with the acidity of tomatoes and they share a common bond of herbal-fruit overtones of two vine grown fruits. I decided to open two 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon's from Allan Scott and Spy Valley.

To pair up the wines I made a deconstructed Insalata Caprese salad with Black Zebra, Mandarin Cross, and Texas Star tomatoes, some local Mozzarella di Bufala http://www.naturalpastures.com/mozzadibufala from Vancouver Island, fresh basil from my balcony planter, and an amazing Crete olive oil from Terra Creta http://www.terrgreta.gr/. The combination of flavours and textures worked well with both wines. The Mozzarella with its rich creaminess balanced the acidity in both the wine and tomatoes. The Crete olive oil with its Spanish like richness but slightly Tuscan peppiness played well with the ingredients on the plate and added some extra dimension to the wine and food pairing.

Allan Scott 2007 Marlborough 20.99 CDN$
Light gold with vibrant aromas of guava, mineral, and subtle grassy-herbal notes. Medium-bodied, crisp, well-balanced with a nice texture, and flavours of passion fruit, subtle capsicum, and a grapefruit lemony finish. Good value.
http://www.allanscott.com/wines/tastingnotes.asp?WiID=123&WiVar=4

Spy Valley 2007 Marlborough $ unknown
A jet setting UK friend dropped this one off for me. Pale straw colour with complex aromas of passion fruit, gooseberry, melon, and an almost Loire like minerality. Medium to full-bodied, powerful and intense flavours of gooseberry, passion fruit, and ripe melon. A bigger more complex style than the Allan Scott. Beautifully made.
http://www.spyvalleywine.co.nz/

Both wines worked extremely well with the salad but the head's up goes to the Spy Valley for added complexity with the dish. While the heirloom tomato season lasts get to your local farmer's markets and take advantage of real and flavourful tomatoes. In Vancouver you can find information on all local markets at: http://www.eatlocal.org/

South Africa: Shiraz and Syrah June 11 2009

2009-06-11T13:08:00.011-07:00

I had a great morning wine tasting and early luncheon featuring a focus on South African Shiraz and Syrah lead by award winning winemaker Marc Kent today at the Diva at the Met. The tasting of two South African whites and nine reds was an eye opener to the quality coming out of SA .

Winemaker Marc Kent commented on the meteoric rise of red varietals especially Shiraz/Syrah in the last two decades. From 1990 to 1998 red production has risen from 18% to 48% and Shiraz from 1% of total production to just over 18%. Marc mentioned the long history of South Africa as the nine largest wine producer globally and the oldest of the new world wine regions. In his opinion Shiraz is the future varietal for SA.

Here are my tasting notes. Chef and Sommelier Dino Renaerts prepared a tasty wine paired lunch to show off the aromatic and savoury flavour elements of the red wines.

Graham Beck Brut $24.99 CDN
Straw yellow with fine mousse and subtle yeast and green apple aromas. Light-bodied, green apple, subtle minerality notes in the soft middle with a crisp dry finish.

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $14.99 CDN
Straw green with subtle green bean and melon aromas. Light-bodied and round with notes of melon, apple, and a hint of mineral. Crisp finish. A delicate non aggressive SB style.

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2008 $14.99 CDN
Ruby with good depth of colour and aromas of raisin and cassis. Medium-bodied with a lush smooth texture and flavours of spice, blackberry, black cherry, and hints of raisin. Good value.

Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2006 $15.99 CDN
Ruby with ripe spice aromas. Medium-bodied, subtle tannins and ripe blackberry, raisin, and spice notes.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007 $17.99 CDN
Ruby purple with cedar aromas. Medium-bodied with some chewy tannins, decent concentration of flavour, and notes reminiscent of spice, pepper, and cherry. Rhone styled.

Glen Carlou Syrah 2005 $29.73 CDN
Ruby purple with exotic spice aromas. Full-bodied and complex with Australian fruit forward styling and flavours of warm sweet spice, vanilla, and ripe cassis.

Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block 2007 $45.00 CDN
Ruby purple and aromas of plum, spice, and coffee. Full-bodied , chewy, and concentrated with plum, orange pekoe tea, roasted coffee, chocolate and blueberry flavours. Languedoc in style.

Robertson Constitution Road Shiraz 2005 $39.99 CDN

Ruby colour with tea and warm spice aromas. Medium to full-bodied with a lush texture and complex notes of leather, tea, and spice.

Mulderbosch Shiraz 2004 $34.99
Ruby purple with roasted earth, savoury herb, and a pronounced white pepper aroma. Full-bodied, chewy tannins, and flavours of white pepper, spice, meat, and vanilla. Rhone styled

Thelema Mountain Shiraz 204 $34.99 CDN
Ruby purple with a complex nose of sweet spice and savoury meatiness. Full-bodied with ripe blackberry, chocolate orange, spice, cassis, and cedar. Elegant and complex.

Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2005 $69.99
Ruby with cedar aromas. Full-bodied, lush, and concentrated with pepper, spice, cassis, and blueberry flavours. Complex and layered with a Rhone style bent.

South African Lunch - Chef Dino Renaerts

Goat cheese croquette with tomato chutney
Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc
Tomato foam and pea puree
Graham Beck Brut
Spiced beef slider
Porcupine Ridge Syrah
Brasied beef & mushroom wellington
Glen Carlou Syrah
Duck confit & lentils
Boekenhoutskloof The WolfTrap
Seared flank steak cube with port glazed shallot jam
Boekenhoutsloof The Chocolate Block
Valrhona chocolate pudding
Boekenhoutsloof Syrah

WINE - Badia a Coltibuono

2009-04-13T20:33:00.008-07:00

Last month I had the privilege to taste seven wines from this illustrious estate. Badia a Coltibuono has a 1000 year history of Tuscan wine production and today a 900+ ha estate comprising of 70 ha of vines and 18 ha of olive oil production. The estate's style is a bridge between the new and classic Chianti wines styles. Forward thinking in viticulture/viniculture but with a 150 year one family, Stucchi Prinetti , devotion to Sangiovese. The Sangiovese grape accounts for more than 80% of the family's estate plantings.

Detailed information on the wines and estate itself are available at:http://www.coltibuono.com/ prices are in Canadian dollars and most wines are not available in the BC market at this time.

TASTING NOTES:

Cancelli Rosso Toscano IGT 2007 approx $21
Ruby red with aromas of red Cherry and black pepper.
Light-bodied and soft with lush ripe fruit and notes of pepper and earth. Easy drinking red. 70% Sangiovese and 30% Syrah.

RS Chianti Classico 2006 $23.95
Cherry red colour and aromas of cherry and herbs. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and good acidity and lush red cherry, plum, pepper, and savoury herb flavours. Multi-grower blend with approximately three months inf French Allier oak.

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2006 approx $36
Ruby red with aromas of cherry, tobacco, and violets. Medium-bodied, good concentration and chewy tannins and flavours of cherry, leather, earth. Good complexity. Organic

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 approx. $70
Cherry red with a complex nose of smoke, mineral, cherry, and flowers.
Full-bodied, chewy tannins, complex and layered with spice, vanilla, tea, and leather. Organic, 90% Sangiovese, 24 months in French & Austrian oak.

Cultus Boni Chianti Classico 2004 approx. $47
Ruby red with good depth and amazing fresh liquorice aromas with hints of cedar and chocolate. Full-bodied, lush, and round, chewy tannins and flavours of liquorice, chocolate, cherry, and tea. 80% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot.

Sangioveto 2004 IGT approx. $80
Ruby purple with aromas of violets, spice, red currant aromas. Full-bodied, rich, but with soft tannins and flavours of tobacco, chocolate, violets, and cherry. Not super complex compared to other vintages. Organic, 100% Sangiovese, 12 months French oak, 25% new.

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2003 375ml $41.99
Amber gold with honeyed nut aromas. Full-bodied and concentrated with sweet barley sugar, dried apricot, and honeyed nut flavours. 50% Trebbiano, 50% Malvasia, 4 years mixed cask/oak ageing.

BEER - Rogue Craft Brewery 3 Beers

2009-04-13T16:32:00.022-07:00

I've always been an advocate of fine wine and also of great craft and micro brewed beers. This Easter weekend's cooking was delayed by a trying a series of three beers from Oregon's Rogue Brewery. http://www.rogue.com/index.php This Newport brewery was established in 1988 by three partners with the premise of making fine microbrewery beers that are made for "food and beer pairing" using no pasturisation, no preservatives and all natural ingredients. Being PNW Pacific Northwest based Rogue also has the benefit of using locally sourced malts and hops. Their 'Pacman" proprietary "wild yeast" gives the beers a distinct flavour and body profile. All beer were tasted from 650ml (22 US ounce) bottles.

Juniper Pale Ale

Malts: Northwest Harrington, Crystal, Triumph, Maier Munich & C-15. Hops: Styrian Golding & Amarillo. Straw gold colour with light carbonation and little lacing. Aromas of subtle flowers and malts. On the palate is its medium-bodied, smooth, some bitterness, very mild almost non-existent juniper flavours. My least favourite of the flight but have been brought up with juniper encrusted and sauced game dishes and summer G&T's the lack of a "British" palate of intense juniper gives it a slightly lower thumbs up. Still enjoyable and good beer with venison sausages, white bird meats, and trout.

Yellow Snow IPA

Malts: Two Row Pale, Cara Foam & Melanoiden.
Hops: Amarillo. Yellow gold colour with good carbonation and lacing. Complex nose of citrusy hops, pine, and apple. Medium-bodied, dry, and crisp with typical IPA flavours, not too bitter, but refreshing with lemon, grapefruit, and subtle pepper flavours. Try this one with a tandoori, grilled fish and white meats, and spicy BBQ sausages.

Chipolte Ale

Malts: Harrington, Klages & Maier Munich.
Hops: Cascade and Willamette. One of my Rogue favourites! Golden mahogany colour with malty, pepper, and subtle smokey aromas. Medium-bodied, creamy textured with nice balance of hops, malt, and chipolte. Intriguing to drink, the lovely smokey peppery notes, kick in about 5-8 seconds after swallowing. Try this one with BBQ red meats, bison burgers with blue cheese, Tex-Mex cuisine, and for a real but very tasty shocker! dark chocolate.

SARTORIAL PURSUITS - Socks

2009-03-08T11:21:00.015-07:00

Socks may have been around for the last five hundred years or so but they have undergone another minor Renaissance amongst international designers. I have always had a soft spot for stripey shirts, old school and regimental ties, and a renewed passion in well made and designed socks. I've purchased over the last several months socks from Corgi, Paul Smith, Duchamp, Pantherella , and Holt Renfrews own in house brand. Other than when wearing boater's, sandals, or sports related footwear I'm always wearing a good well constructed pair of socks whether made from wool, cashmere, or cotton. I'm not a big fan of plain colours and like my choice in shirts and ties I like bright, colourful, and bold colours and patterns. Proper dress may dictate the blending of pants, socks, and shoes or a colour match between shirt and sock, but being more of a clothes dandy I go for the reverse. All of my recent purchases have been either from Holt Renfrew in Vancouver or from the UK. Corgi socks are definitely old school with a heavy emphasis on stripes and school/sport colours. They have been manufactured since 1893 in Western Wales. Paul Smith has gone with the "English" theme of contrasting heel and toe as well as making some beautiful floral patterns. Paul Smith socks are Brit designed and manufactured in Italy. Duchamp of London well known for their powerfully patterned ties and shirts also produces some lovely bold and funky socks. Pantherella socks although abit more conservative are well made socks that have been manufactured in Leicester since 1937 using a high proportion of luxury materials such as cashmere. A small selection of Pantherella and Duchamp are sold at Vancouver's Holt Renfrew. Paul Smith and Corgi can be purchased on line at leading men's retailers.

WINE - Barbera, Barbaresco, and Barolo

2009-02-27T22:53:00.016-08:00

A few short notes from the recent BB&B tasting I held for the WaaZuBee Cafe Wine Club on February 24th. I took the group of twenty three on a short excursion through the land of 'tar and roses" tasting two Barbera's and three Nebbiolo based wines. The focus of the tasting was to taste the differences between a generic producers of both varietals through to a small artisan estate growers. I touched on the differences between Barbaresco (1 year wood ageing, minimum 12.5% abv) and Barolo (2 years wood ageing and minimum 13% abv) along with the differences in flavour and style between the classic "tradionalist" and "modernist" producers. As well as looked at the history, geology, and geography of Piedmont and of both Barbera (Italy's 3rd most prominent work horse grape) and quirky nature of Nebbiolo ( various clones, mutations, long slow growing period), difficult growing nature i.e. susceptibility to vine diseases, and its near Burgundian cult following for "cru" single vineyard and commune wines.

Ricossa Barbera d'Asti 2006
Ruby red with typical text book aromas of red cherry and subtle blueberry notes. Light to medium-bodied with a lush textured balanced by good acidity and decent length of flavour (blueberry, red cherry, and pepper). Decent value 15.97 CDN$

Renata Fenocchio Barbera d'Alba 2006
Ruby purple with good depth of colour. Black cherry and minerally earth aromas. Full-bodied and concentrated with spice, black cherry, damson plum, and a sour cherry and vanilla note in the long finish. Nice balance of ripe fruit and acidity. A classy organic artisanal Barbera. 35.00 CDN$

Fontanafredda Barbaresco 2004
Cherry red with subtle tarry aromas. Full-bodied with some chewy tannins and flavours veering from violets to cedar, mineral and lead pencil. Needs another 2 or 3 years to round out. 34.95 CDN$

Fontanafreeda Barolo 2004
Cherry red with aromas of tobacco leaf, fruit leather, and subtle tar. Full-bodied with chewy tannins, and more complex flavours than the sister Barbaresco, with cedar, red plum, black cherry, and dried floral notes. 2-3 years ageing will bring out additional complexity. 38.65 CDN$

Poderi Colla Dardi Le Rose Barolo Bussia 2004
Cherry red colour with hints of mahogany and fresh laid tar aromas - classic. Full-bodied, chewy, and complex with layers of dried rose, prune, fig, violets, black cherry, black plum, and tar. Complex Bussia cru styling made in the "elegant" school of thought. Drinking nicely now but easily can handle the cellar until 2014 to 2016. 61.99 CDN$

WINE - Curiously Different BC

2009-02-22T11:15:00.007-08:00

Over the last fortnight or so I've been drinking several somewhat curious and limited production BC wine varietals. Three that stuck my fancy have been the Hillside Pinotage, Twisted Tree Tempranillo, and the Summerhill Rose Ice Wine Dosage Sparkling.

Cipes Ice Wine Dosage Sparkling NV $44.95
Small persistent bubbles and good mousse and lovely cherry copper colour. Aromas of raspberry and baked apples. On the palate this BC bubble is medium-bodied with ripe berry notes of strawberry, cherry, and ripe Pinot Noir fruit. The crisp acidity balances the slightly sweet honeyed undertones of the ice wine dosage. Try this one with BBQ duck or Asian inspired dishes with a sweet element. Made from organic grapes. http://www.summerhill.bc.ca/

Twisted Tree Tempranillo 2007 $27.90
Deep cherry red with aromas of strawberry leaf, green tobacco, and subtle leathery notes. Medium-bodied and rounder than a Spanish Tempranillo with flavours of strawberry, raspberry, chocolate, and hints of cherry. Nice pairing with herbed lamb chops or curiously with Schezuan peppercorn chocolate truffles. French barrique aged and the inaugural vintage of this varietal from Twisted Tree. 13.9% abv http://www.twistedtree.ca/

Hillside Estate Pinotage 2007 $24.99
Ruby red colour with typical and appealing Pinotage aromas of bacon fat and smoke. Medium-bodied, lushly textured, and complexly layered with flavours of raspberry, autumnal smoke, earth, spice, and mixed wild blackberries. This one will give South African a run for its flavour complexity. 100% American oak ageing for 8 and 1/2 months.

http://www.hillsideestate.com/

KITCHEN GEAR - Nespresso Aeroccino Milk Frother

2009-02-15T18:56:00.012-08:00

For my birthday I received the Nespresso Aeroccino Automatic Milk Frother to accompany the Essenza single serve espresso machine I purchased late last year. This unit is a simple and easy method to produce frothy heated milk and foam for lattes and cappuccinos. The Aeroccino + has a stainless steel outer body and Teflon coated frothing and heating chamber with a capacity of 6 oz along with two attachments for steamed milk and frothed milk. The unit draws about 550 watts , is 3 1/2" x 5 3/4" high, and has a very small small footprint. It has no moving parts other than a magnetically driven frothing wheel - so virtually silent. The run cycle for hot foamed milk is approximately 50 seconds with heating milk to 165 degrees. I'd prefer my milk a little hotter; but the ratio of hot milk and froth is perfect for a latte or cappuccino. This model the Aeroccino + allows for both hot and cold beverages to be made. A simple two second push of the only button puts the unit into a cold frothing mode. A nice touch is the red or blue led back light button to let you know if you are heating milk and automatic shut-off. User friendly right out of the box, easy to clean, and a nice companion to the Nespresso machine line. Approximately $120 CDN http://secure.nespresso.com/precom/accessories/demo/aeroccino/index.php?lang=en

BOUTIQUE HOTELS - Lord Howe Island

2009-02-09T17:32:00.018-08:00

Capella Lodge Lord Howe Island Australia

2 hours flying time and 600km East by Dash 8's from Sydney is the World Heritage Site: Lord Howe Island - home to over 130 species of birds, 500 species of fish, and 90 different corals. The island is not a resort island; visitor numbers are strictly limited to 400 and it is one of the cleanest places on earth with no air or sea pollution or litter. Lord Howe is easily walkable it is 11km long and 2.8 km wide. Neds Beach, a popular favourite, was voted Australia's cleanest beach. No camping is allowed and all accommodation is run by the local population and must be pre-confirmed before booking a flight to the Island. Accommodation runs from self catering cottages, B&B's, guest houses, and a of couple boutique luxury lodges. During our stay we opted for a three night stay at the luxury Capella Lodge isolated from the rest of the island with its amazing twin peak views of the 6.4 million year old Mount Lidgbird (777 m) and Mount Gower (875 m) on the southern end of the island. The nine suites have magificent views of the Mountains, lush Kentia palms or aquamarine ocean and reefs.The contemporary suites are a luxurious refuge with light timber floors, white shutters, marine fixtures and a sophisticated beach house feel. The suites have king size beds with a selection of pillows along with a CD player, TV ( 3 channels), DVD player - there is a large library of DVD's in the bar , telephone and room bar. En suites offer a bath and rain shower and premium Australian toiletries. Beach towels, bathrobes and knack sacks are provided as is daily housekeeping and evening turn down service. Capella has guest space for just twenty so you're on a first name basis with staff the first night. There are a total of nine rooms, one suitable for children, and you are offered a gourmet breakfast and three course dinner each day of your stay.

If you dietary issues you must let the lodge know in due course - you are after all 600km out in the ocean! Lunch can be a prepared picnic or you can opt to cook your own lunch on one of the many BBQ's around the island. The restaurant and bar have a great selection of cocktails, wines, and beers. Late night need for a drink - the bar is on an honour system. The lodge offers complimentary wifi, mountain bikes, a motorised golf cart, snorkeling equipment, and kayaks to all guests. You cannot use a mobile phone on the island - there is no service.

There is also a delightful spa with a wide range of services available. Food during our stay was a Modern Australian - a mixture of Australian, Asian, and European. Highlights of the island including feeding King fish at Neds Beach, hiking up Mount Gower, and seeing the elusive and flightless woodhen. Rates vary from $590 AUS per person per night to $1230 AUS during high season. http://www.lordhowe.com/

Lord Howe Island - "One of the 100 places to visit before you die"

WINE - Portugal

2009-02-09T15:04:00.012-08:00

Recently I was privileged to take part in a small trade and media tasting of Portuguese wines at the Blue Water cafe in Vancouver. It was an informative event and great to try a series of Portuguese reds and white paired up with a west coast twist on Portuguese food.

In a nutshell - Portugal has 11 geographical wine regions and 29 designation of origin "denominacoes de origem" of high quality wines with approximately 500,000 acres of vine under cultivation. What makes Portugal fascinating is its preponderance of indigenous varietals that are extremely interesting if you're sick and tired of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz, or Chardonnay. Canada is the sixth largest importer of Portuguese wine and expect to see many more hit the store shelves in the near future.

Tasting notes - February 2nd 7pm

Quinta do Ameal Escolha Loureiro 2004 Vinho Verde $34.99

Yellow green with refreshing lime, flower blossoms, and subtle oak aromas. Medium-bodied, lush, and rich, not your usual Vinho Verde, with rich floral and citrus flavours. Well-balanced and good complexity. Perfect pairing with sushi or prawns. 100% Loureiro. Six months ageing & fermentation in French hogsheads.

Quinta do Vallado Reserva White 2006 Douro $20.99

Straw green with oatmeal and mineral aromas. Medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity, subtle nutty oatmeal, mineral, and vanilla notes. Good value and a perfect foil for smoked cod, salmon, or sablefish. 30% Rabigato, 35% Goveio, 22.5% Viosinho, & 12.5% Arinto. 10 months in French oak.

Alianca Quinta da Garrida 2005 Dao $17.99

Ruby red with good depth and rustic herb and olive aromas. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, and flavours of spice, pepper, liquorice, and tomato leaf. Good pairing with braised meats. Blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, and Alfrocheiro. 12 months in French and American oak.

Tentacao 2005 Terras do Sado $26.95

Ruby red with spice and crushed pepper aromas. Light to medium-bodied with spice, briar, and cherry notes. Rustic styled. Nice with cheese and chaoucuterie. Made from Castelao (Periquita)

Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional 2005 Douro $78.50

The Rolls Royce of Douro varietals this 100%Touriga Nacional is dense ruby purple in colour with classic TN aromas of violets and orange with layers of spice, mineral, and blackcurrant. On the palate it is full-bodied, chewy with tannins for 5-8 years, and complex flavours of violets, citrus, vanilla, cigar box, and pepper. Amazing bottle in a new world style. Great on its own or with nice cut of lamb. Star of the tasting and worth the money hands down. 18 months in Frenck oak.

Quinta do Vale Dona Maria 2005 Douro Valley $49.99

A blend of 41 varietals! Ruby red with savoury herbaceous aromas. Medium to full-bodied with chewy tannins 3-5 years ageing potential, and flavours of black cherry, briar, damson plum,and savoury herbs. Aged in 70% new and 30% 1 year old French oak

Azul 2006 Bairrada $15.99

Ruby red with rustic herby and berry leaf aromas. Medium to full-bodied, good concentration of fruit, and flavours of ripe berry, spice, and tomato leaf. Good value and ideal with stews or braised meats. A blend of Baga, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Nacional.

Esporao Reserva 2006 Alentejo $14.99

Ruby red with lovely tobacco leaf and cigar box aromas. Medium-bodied, lush, new world styled, with exotic spice, blackberry, and blackcurrant notes. Excellent value! Made from Trinadera, Aragones, and Cabernet Sauvignon. American oak ageing for 1 year.

Quinta de Chocapalha Reserva Estremadura 2004 $42.99

Ruby red with floral and black fruits. Medium-bodied, some tannins but soft and lush, with spice, plum, and oak vanillin, and hints of cointreau, violets, and briary earthy hints. 64% Touriga Nacional and 36% Tinta Roriz.

Grahams Vintage Port 2003 Douro $78.35

Ruby purple with youthful aromas of orange, flowers, blackberry,and fruit cake hints. Full-bodied, sweet, and full of grippy tannins, fruit cake, spice, tar, chocolate, mocha and blackberry notes. Nice now but better in 10-15 years.

DRINKS - Fentimans Sodas

2009-02-08T23:17:00.009-08:00

I can safely say that other than the occasional rum and coke or dark and stormy I rarely drink sodas; that has changed since I came across these wonderfully wickedly packaged sodas from the UK at Urban fare in the Shangri-La complex. You can only think of endless possibilities with the drinks cabinet marriage and friends fascination with the apothecary packaging. Fentimans botanically brewed sodas are artisan produced in Newcaste Upon Tyne, based on an original 1905 recipe, when Thomas Fentiman on a handshake started his firm producing ginger beer. The concept of small batch 7 day brewing of herbs, botanicals, sugar, and yeast has not changed much in the last century other than for some pasteurisation (keeps the government happy). These sodas are completely natural and you may find a fine sediment in the occasional bottle hence the words of the wise imprinted on the label "up end before pouring" I picked up a four pack of Curiosity Cola and Dandelion & Burdock but according to the company website there is a strong ginger beer, shandy, and lemonade also available.I did see the latter two at Urban Fare. Not cheap at $3.75 per 275ml bottle but tasty indeed. These sodas are mildly carbonated, not overly sweet, and complexly flavoured. Adult fizzy drinks your children will not drink! I'm imagining these at our summer picnics, mixed with gin, and contemplating re-reading Wind in the Willows with the image of the rats running amok in Toad Hall with bottles of Fentimans in hand. http://www.fentimans.com/

WINE - Voga Sparkling Pinot Grigio

2009-02-08T18:16:00.014-08:00

Veneto Design - Vancouver Desire
I recently tasted this Italian Sparkling Pinot Grigio and thought what a great concept for the trendy and wine savvy Vancouver market. We've got a slick looking package, Voss Water in design, made from a BC favourite varietal - Pinot Grigio a.k.a. Pinot Gris, and its sparkling therefore food friendly. This Pinot Grigio is sourced from vineyards in both the Veneto and the Trentino and under goes a seven month Charmat (tank method) fermentation process. The packaging and marketing makes it uber trendy in our youthful and vibrant winemarket and it is actually very tasty. It gets my thumbs up this month.

My notes from February 7th 2009.

Straw green with lots of effervescence and surprisingly small bubbles and decent mousse. Lovely aromas of fruit salad, pear, green tree fruit, and subtle mineral notes. On the palate it is crisp and refreshing, light-bodied, with lots of green apple, pear, and ripe fruit overtones with a subtle hint of yeastiness. Great bubble for the West Coast - think salmon benedicts, sushi, or Vancouver Island goat cheese. Non vintage, 12% ABV, and $22.99 CDN in our BCLDB shops.
http://www.vogaitalia.com/

The closure is an interesting concept; with a large translucent screw cap covering a traditional cork and cage. If I was a product designer or packaging manager I would have opted for a resealable cap. Think bubble closure but in a screw cap. I have a great constitution for drinking; but I find it hard to drink a whole bottle of bubble solo unless watching the Oxford/Cambridge race, RBS 6 Nations, or Wimbledon. A resealable bottle would also be great for restaurant and wine bar sellability by the glass.

ESSENTIAL KIT Moleskine City Notes

2009-02-01T17:42:00.010-08:00

I'm no Van Gogh, Matisse, or Hemingway; but falling into the marketing ploy of Moleskine note books I do indeed write a lot more now than I did on scraps of paper. I've been hooked on Moleskine note books for taking wine and food notes, jotting down phone numbers and addresses in style, and creating mind map sketches on the fly. In the last three years with a lot more international travel I've become an advocate for the Moleskine city notebooks. I use my London, Barcelona, and Hong Kong city notes whenever traveling to those cities. These 9 by 14 cm (3.5 x 5.5 inches) moleskine (oil clothed cardboard) notebooks with elasticised closure have 228 pages, three different coloured ribbon place markers, along with 44 pages of coloured street and transit maps. There are 12 tabbed sections: "Food: Places, legends, recipes", "Drinks: Bars, wineries, stories", "Sleep: Places, dreams, adventures", "People: Names, faces, encounters", "Info: shopping, art", and "Books, movies, music." along with 6 custom tabs to suit your lifestyle. City notes are great for preserving trip memories i.e. favourite bars, restaurants, hotels, sights, people, and shopping; along with detailed maps for the main downtown zones with the all important aphabetically listed street index. Twelve translucent sticky and re-positionable tracing sheets for retracing your favourite city walk abouts are lifesavers especially in cities like Barcelona. There's space for your travel itinerary planning and an accordion pocket in the rear to hold stamps, local lottery tickets and business cards. There are also 32 removal perforated squares for trading notes or phone numbers and 76 blanc pages for notes and sketches.
City notes are currently available for: Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Beijing , Berlin, Brussels, Boston ,Chicago, Copenhagen, Dublin, Florence, Frankfurt, Hamburg , Hong Kong, Kyoto, Istanbul, Lisbon, London, Los Angeles, Madrid, Miami, Milan, Montréal, Moscow, Munich, New York, Paris, Philadelphia, Prague, Rome, San Francisco, Saint Petersburg, Seattle, Stockholm, Tokyo, Toronto, Turin, Vancouver, Venice, Vienna, Washington, D.C., and Zurich
Moleskin city notes are for sale at Country Furniture on South Granville Street http://www.countryfurniture.net/countryfurniture/home.cfm for more details of city notebooks see the official Moleskine website:
http://www.moleskine.it/eng/_interni/catalogo/Cat_int/catalogo_city.htm

WNE - Torres Moscato Oro

2009-02-01T16:42:00.015-08:00

If you're looking for a dessert wine to pair up with a mild blue cheese, fruit tart, or winter pudding give the Torres Moscatel Oro a try. This non-vintage "vino dulce natural" or "vin doux naturel" is blend of two Muscat varietals Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat de Frontignac) and Moscatel de Alejandria (Muscat de Alexandria).

Torres Moscato Oro $20cdn

Light amber colour with aromas of malty Assam tea and raisins. Medium to full-bodied , rich and creamy textured, with flavours of tea, barley sugar, bergamot, light golden syrup and a long finish of floral honey and marmalade.

Tasted January 28th 2009 Two Chefs & A Table Torres Dinner

http://www.torres.es/eng/asp/index.asp

WINE - Zinfandel a 6 bottle review

2009-02-01T15:39:00.031-08:00

Here are my brief tasting notes from a Zinfandel tasting that I hosted on January 27th 2009 . The tasting revolved around California with a brief look outside the USA to Italy (the ancestral home of Zin a.k.a. Primitivo) and Australia - proving Zin does well outside of its iconic American home. All wines were purchased at the BCLDB except for the Gravity Hills and Kangarilla Road and are priced in Canadian dollars. The Rodney Strong, Ravenswood, and Tamas Estate showed their true cooler climate Zin characteristics with more restrained red fruit elements where as the Gravity Hills and A. Mano showed the effects of warmer climate fruit notes of ripe black fruits and exotic spice and pepper notes. The Kangarilla Road exhibited many of the elements of its cooler climate Sonoma brethren but had atypical floral aroma.

Rodney Strong Sonoma 2 Knotty Vines 2006 $23.99

Medium to full-bodied with briar, raspberry, red cherry and soft tannins with a finish of spice,cherry and vanilla.14.8% ABV 10 months in oak (71% American; 29% French) 99% Zin, 1% Petite Sirah

Ravenswood Sonoma Old Vine 2005 $29.99

Full-bodied with chewy tannins and concentrated flavours of cedar, raspberry, spice. Restrained cedar and resin notes on nose and palate from new wood. 14.5% ABV 24 months French oak (34% new) 95% Zin, 4% Carignane, 1% field blend My personal favourite!

Tamas Estate Livermore 2005 $17.99

Medium-bodied, lush and soft texture, and flavours of savoury herb, plum, soy, and briary red fruits. 14.5% ABV 8 months in neutral oak varietal % not known

A. Mano Primitivo 206 Puglia Italy $17.99

Medium-bodied some tannic backbone with flavours of ripe berries, spice, and a layer of black pepper from start to finish.

13.5% ABV 70-100 year old vines, 100% stainless steel fermentation and ageing

Gravity Hills Tumbling Tractor Paso Robles 2005 $19.99

Medium-bodied with lots of briary raspberry and plum with a hint of mineral and spice in the finish. 13.5% ABV no varietal make up or wine making information available

Kangarilla Road Black St.John McLaren Vale 2005 Australia $29.99 Lovely but unusual perfumey aromas. Full-bodied with chewy concentrated tannins and flavours of briar, raspberry, cedar, and Violet and rose hints in the long finish.

30 year old vines, 1 year in French oak

WINE - Bordeaux

2009-01-26T17:19:00.011-08:00

Chateau Pey La Tour 2005
This Bordeaux Superieur property is a blend of 89% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Petit Verdot. Production is around one million bottles from a 170 ha site. The property has been owned by Dourthe since 1990.

My tasting notes: January 25th 5:30pm

Ruby red aromas of tobacco leaf and herb. Medium to full-bodied with a lush Merlot dominated texture, some tannic grip, and flavours of plum, tobacco, vanilla, and blackberry leaf. Nice finish of subtle lead pencil and leafy cassis. Drink now with 1 hour decanting or cellar up to 3 years.
BCLDB stores $26.49 CDN$

SPIRITS Cooley Distillery

2009-01-25T19:47:00.024-08:00

I had the pleasure of a brief sit down and tasting with John Cashman, New Business Development Manager, of Cooley Distillery who was in Vancouver and Victoria marketing his range of Irish whiskey to the trade and public. During our chat we tasted the Greennore Single Grain 8 Year, Tyrconnell Single Malt, and the Connemara Peated Single Malt. John mentioned that prior to 1987 (Cooley's founding) The Irish whiskey industry was controlled by two spirit giants: Diageo and Pernod Ricard. These two multi-nationals marketed Irish Whiskey to the world trade and public with the thoughts of Irish implying "no peat and triple distilled". Cooley resurrected mothballed distilleries and the original concepts of true Irish whiskey; peated and double distilled like Scotch. Cooley Distillery was named World and European Distiller of the Year in November 2008 for their spirits at the International Wine and Spirit Competition.

Here are my tasting notes: January 23rd 2009 10:15am

Greennore 8 Year Old
Small batch single grain irsh whiskey matured in used bourbon casks for a minimum of 8 years. Sweet coconut, corn, and vanilla notes on the nose. Medium-bodied, lush and smooth, with vanilla, spice, and sweet oak flavours. An Irish Bourbon ? Perfect pre-dinner aperitif spirit. 5000 case production.

Tyrconnell Single Malt
Named after Tyconnell, a legendary 1oo to one horse race winner, this full-bodied whiskey has a honeyed and citrus nose and flavours of mild peat smoke, cointreau, chocolate, apple, and pear and Assam tea. Complexly layered. Pot Still Distillation. $59.99 BC CDN$

Connemara Peated Single Malt
Ireland's only Peated Single Malt. Aromas of smoke and peat. Full-bodied and creamy, with smoke, peat, honey and vanillin oak notes. Complex and long finish. Nice digestive whiskey to finish an evening. $$69.99 BC CDN$

http://www.cooleywhiskey.com/

photo's Cooley Whiskey website

ESSENTIAL KIT Mont Blanc Fountain Pens

2009-01-25T17:35:00.021-08:00

As much as I love technology there is no denying the primal pleasure of using a magificent writing instrument like the MEISTERSTÜCK PLATINUM LINE HOMMAGE À FRÉDÉRIC CHOPIN 145. For our tenth wedding anniversary Helen surprised me with this beautiful fountain pen. It is a slimmer version of the iconic Platinum line - perfect for travel and fitting seamlessly in your jacket or day planner. It has all the features of its pricier chubby brothers (14k gold nib with platinum inlay, black resin barrel, platinum plated clip and ring, individual serial number, and the inlaid white edelweiss star). The pen is 5 and 1/2 inches long capped and 6 inches when posted. Each pen is still hand crafted in the Mont Blanc atelier in Hamburg with over one hundred steps from creation to finish. I relish in its beauty, weight, and the feel of nib to paper whenever I use this pen . The biggest drawbacks - what colour of ink to buy and the cost - this model ranges from $399 to $500. A posh pen but also a piece of artistic beauty.

http://www.montblanc.com/products/26.php

Mont Blanc pens are available in Vancouver at The Vancouver Pen Shop 512 Hastings Street 604.681.1612

TEA - Kusmi Tea Russian Morning No.24

2009-01-22T21:37:00.012-08:00

Tea is my preferred choice of beverage first thing in the a.m. I recently came across this breakfast tea at the Farfalla Tea Boutique at 57 Cordova Street in Gastown. The Russian Morning no.24 tea is a blend of Chinese, Ceylon, and Indian black teas. It is a full leaf tea with good colour after infusion. It is medium strength with some tannins, smooth texture, and a hint of subtle smokiness. Not as rich or as malty as pure Assams; but still eye opening http://www.shopfarfalla.ca/. The instructions call for one teaspoon per cup and a three to four minute infusion. I opt for the same ratio but a five to six minute infusion for a stronger more tannic morning cup. Packaging is delightful play on the original Russian ownership of the tea blending company one hundred and forty years ago but now firmly entrenched on the avenue Niel in Paris. $38 for 250 grams as well as smaller tins available. I prefer to drink this tea with milk.

WINE - Torres Mas Rabell

2009-01-19T20:30:00.022-08:00

Torres Mas Rabell 2006 Spain $14.50 CDN
Named after the Torres family's private restaurant this white is made primarily from Parallada and Garnacha Blanca.
Pale straw green with aromas of grapefruit pith and subtle herbs (fennel and sage). Light-bodied 11.5% ABV with refreshing crisp acidity and flavours of green apple, grapefruit, herb, and mineral notes. Perfect match for a delicate fish or sushi.
If you enjoy Torres Wines, Two Chefs and A Table http://www.twochefsandatable.com/, is organising a Torres wine dinner menu starting on January 28th. Here is the menu and wine pairing. Hopefully Helen and I will see some of you there.

BEER - Young's Chocolate Stout UK

2009-01-19T19:15:00.004-08:00

One of my favourite winter beers is the Double Chocolate Stout from Young's of the UK and available by the bottle here in BC for $3.50 (500ml) Just looking at the bottle reminds me of Cadbury and Quality Street chocolate wrappers.

This blend of chocolate, pale, and crystal malts along with Fuggle and Golding hops plus the addition of real chocolate produces an ale with 5.2% ABV which pours dark black with a nice thick tan head, nice cascading and lacing, small carbonation bubbles, and aromas of chocolate and malted biscuit. On the palate it is medium-bodied and full of toasted chocolate, malt, and coffee. Nice way to finish the evening without dessert or possibly a dark chocolate fondue with cherries and dark berry fruits.
http://www.youngs.co.uk/history-2006.asp

ESSENTIAL KIT Barbour Jackets

2009-01-19T17:51:00.010-08:00

Over the last two decades I've owned two Barbour jackets; My first purchase a waxed cotton Beaufort jacket, now famous world wide after Helen Mirren's The Queen, sparked renewed interest in this iconic English brand. Our latest purchases From Barbour were our quilted Country Liddesdale Jacket for me and a Polarquilt Jacket for Helen. The quilted jackets were ideally suited for the cool snap we experienced on the windy Broads but they lacked that characteristic aroma of oily Range Rover boots, wet dogs, and old train stations. None the less they are alot warmer and ideal for walking and country pursuits and unlike their waxed counterparts maintenance free. They still look pretty sharp when shopping on Sloane Street, Robson Street, or the Union Square/The Flatiron District , out in the countryside, and like iconic clothing - they are recession proof with age ability and a sense of ageless style. Put one on over a suit, slip on the wellies, and you've got a bit of country in the city.

http://www.barbour.com/

CHEESE - Neal's Yard Dairy

2009-01-15T19:35:00.026-08:00

Neal's Yard Dairy 30 years old in 2010.

Ten years ago I stumbled across Neal's Yard Dairy more by mistake than interest. I've always liked cheese but never really had the passion for the producer or region like I did for wine, its appellations, and her personalities. This shop was my epiphany to great English cheese and cheese making. Stumbling around Covent Garden full of wine and beer in the twilight hours I noticed the strong scent of cheese and found in a slightly rundown courtyard this most amazing shop full from floorboards to rafters of strong maturing aromatic cheese from the far flung corners of the British Isles. A nibble here and a nibble there and I was on my way home on the tube with a selection of wonderful and stinky Stilton, Wensleydale, and Cheddar. Every trip to London since always involves a visit and taste at the original location or if it is market day at the Borough Market - the market shop. The two shops are still owned by managing director Randolph Hodgson, a Hong Kong raised Brit, with a Chinese bent for fanatically fresh food. Neal's Yard Dairy represents about 200 British cheeses just shy of a quarter of the 900 cheese types made from over 7,000 farmhouse cheese producers throughout the United Kingdom.

Today the shops are staffed by a friendly mix of Australian, New Zealand, and Eastern European clerks who like Randolph let you taste any cheese before you buy. ttp://www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk/index.html

Personal favourites that I've tasted in the past year have included the Calston Bassett Stilton, Stinking Bishop, Hawkes Wensleydale, Isle of Mull Cheddar, and Wigmore soft sheep.

In Vancouver you can find some NYD cheeses at Urban Fare http://www.urbanfare.com/, Meindharts http://www.feedyourcuriosity.com/code/navigate.php?Id=1, and Vancouver's best cheese shop Les Amis de Fromage http://www.buycheese.com/ I'm looking forward to some amazing tasting events in 2010 from NYD as well as some special farmhouse cheeses we have never seen or tasted before.

GIN - Hendrick's (Scotland)

2009-01-15T19:18:00.009-08:00

My Favourite Gin for 2008

Made from the usual suspects and a couple of unusual botanicals this small batch Scottish gin made by William Grant and Son in Ayrshire is my current favourite as a martini or G&T. Made in a painstaking slow process using one of only four working 19th century Carter-Head Stills; the slow infusion of juniper, citrus, coriander, along with the very unusual rose and cucumber elements creates a gin apart in aroma, texture, and flavour. It is medium-bodied, smooth, slightly sweet, and complexly aromatic and tasting of rose, Turkish delight, spearmint, cucumber, and a hint of white chocolate. It's complex gin that merits the heavy apothecary bottle and packaging. http://www.hendricksgin.co.uk/us/about/index.asp

Next time you have a G&T add a slice of cucumber instead of the lemon or lime. Hendricks sells in British Columbia for $39.99 CDN

COOKING - Arnold Bennett omelette

2009-01-15T09:43:00.010-08:00

You know you've succeded in the world when you have a dish named after you! This omelette which I've made several times now; was as the story goes created for novelist Arnold Bennett http://www3.shropshire-cc.gov.uk/bennett.htm during his stay at the Savoy Hotel in London. It is an opulent and rich open faced omelette made from a mixture of cheese and smoked haddock. One of my favourite variations on the original is that of Gordon Ramsay's and here is his recipe. Other variations that I recommend include the use of Gruyere cheese, Dijon mustard, and Worstershire sauce. More on those in future posts.

Gordon Ramsay's Arnold Bennett Omelette

Serves 2

The secret to any good omelette is to use a lightly oiled, heavy-based pan. Add a knob of butter and only once it starts to foam do you add the eggs. Then you stir the eggs constantly to beat in some air, and tilt the pan from side to side to make any uncooked egg run to the sides.
1 tsp plain flour 15g butter, at room temperature, plus extra for frying 200ml milk 1 bay leaf ¼ tsp black peppercorns 1 slice of onion 200g smoked, undyed haddock fillet 2 egg yolks 1 tbsp single cream 30g mature cheddar, finely grated Salt and freshly ground black pepper Oil, for greasing 4 eggs Chervil or parsley sprigs, to garnish

1 Blend the flour and butter together to make a paste, then chill until firm. Pour the milk into a small pan and add the bay leaf, peppercorns and onion. Heat the milk gently over a low heat to just below boiling point. Lower in the haddock skin-side down.

2 Cover the haddock with a dampened piece of greaseproof paper and poach gently for about 4 minutes, until the fish is just beginning to show signs of flaking when pressed. Remove the fish from the milk with a slotted spoon and, when it is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and any bones and flake into small pieces.

3 Strain the milk into a bowl and discard the aromatics. Pour 100ml of the infused milk into a clean small pan and return to the heat. Gradually whisk in the butter paste, adding small pieces at a time, and bring to the boil. Cook for 1-2 minutes, whisking constantly until you have a smooth sauce.

4 Put the yolks in a bowl and beat lightly with the cream. Gradually whisk in the sauce, then fold in the haddock and half of the cheese. Check for seasoning. Preheat the grill to a medium setting.

5 Lightly oil an 18-20cm omelette pan and place over a medium to high heat. Break the eggs into a bowl, season and beat with a fork. Add a knob of butter to the pan and swirl it about to coat. When the butter starts to foam, pour in the eggs. Stir them continually, tilting the pan from side to side, until the eggs set on the bottom and the top is soft and creamy.

6 Remove the pan from the heat, then pour the haddock mixture on top of the omelette. Sprinkle over the remaining cheese and grill for a few minutes until golden brown. Garnish with sprigs of chervil or parsley and serve immediately.

WINE - Loire Chenin Blanc

2009-01-13T21:18:00.019-08:00

Domaine des Baumard Savennieres Clos du Papillon 2001 $39.99 Liberty Wine Merchants

White Mischief - Chenin Blanc; Mediocre or spectacular? This dynamite white from the Loire is a mind blowing take on the varietal. Domaine de Baumard, a 1634 estate tucked away behind the village of Rochefort-sur-Loire, and run since 1955 by Jean Baumard has not only bought his estate but Loire Chenin Blanc in general to the forefront of consumer interest. I opened this bottling from Clos du Papillon from the 2001 vintage on Christmas day .

Old gold colour with aromas of honey, glace fruits, and an earthy straw hint. On the palate it is full-bodied, concentrated and rich with flavours of sweetened rice, almonds, honey, and typical Chenin Blanc fruit salad notes (pear, quince, and peach). Nice structure with good acidity and length. Drinking now but you may push another 2 to 3 years out of this bottle.

KITCHEN GEAR: Nespresso Essenza

2009-01-13T21:04:00.054-08:00

There's been a lot of North American press recently about the Nespresso single serve coffee system both positive and negative. Yes! negatively Nestle is a big multinational corporation with all those "evil" overtures; but from a mechanical , lifestyle, aesthetic, and taste point of view the machine is a wonder. I was getting fed up with the dismal quality of flavour and crema on my home espresso machine, the work involved in set up and clean up, and my machine's large footprint on our small kitchen counter top . I opted for buying the Essenza Nespresso machine $249.99 CDN after a delicious coffee at Marrakesh Restaurant in Gastown that has a commercial version of the machine for its bar. I picked up my machine at the Swica Importers showroom, 1764 Renfrew Street in Vancouver , run by Marco Herrmann http://www.swica.ca/ Give him a call at 604 461 9881 and drop by for a demo and an espresso. A bit of research found the machine to be extremely user friendly, highly rated, and it's wide spread use in a number of boutique hotels, first class airline lounges, and top end restaurants around the globe including Heston Bluementhal's Fat Duck h ttp://www.fatduck.co.uk/ in the UK made me a buyer and convert. Luckily in Vancouver we have access to the Nespresso boutique (lounge), one of about 30 globally, located in the basement of the Hudson Bay Company on Granville Street .http://www.nespresso.com/precom/contact/index_boutique_ca_en.html?ref=Vancouver Once you're a member of the coffee club you can order coffee capsules on-line or better yet purchase in person at the lounge. Drop by, have a complimentary coffee, and pick up your coffee capsules (boxes of ten for 53 cents per capsule). You're given a leather key fob to register and track your sales and you'll feel "pretty clubby" with the "yes sir, and thank you Mr. Bonner" compliments thrown in by the staff as you make your purchases. The machine itself is a "lifestyle" tool with its small footprint, ease of use, speed, and very little clean up. I used ours at a fundraising party for a friend and made 26 espressso's in less than 14 minutes - all with perfect crema and temperature.
From a techies view the Essenza has a high-pressure pump (19 bars) with an instant (30-40 second initial start time) thermoblock heating element and programmable/automatic controls for single and double shots and most importantly an automatic ejection system of the used capsules and collection after each coffee. The unit has a water storage capacity of 1 litre (20 espresso shots) and has a sexy smooth feel. For coffee purchasing you're locked into buying the capsules from Nestles. The selection is broad enough to satisfy most coffee drinkers. There are 12 selections available including a couple of decaf options and seasonal blends currently mandarin orange, crystallised ginger, and caramel. I dislike flavoured coffees in gneral and the mandarin was plain artificial in flavour; the ginger and caramel however are worth buying and I could see them making great coffees paired up with some aperitifs or spirits at meals end. The lifespan of this machine should be a long time. The Shangri-La and Opus hotel have machines in all guest rooms and many of the new condo developments in the high end market have installed the $2800 Miele Nespresso Coffee System in their kitchens which use the same capsules. I have no hesitation recommending this machine and living in Vancouver you can avoid ordering on-line; shop in person, and get complimentary coffee drink and a piece of Swiss chocolate to help with the retail therapy next time you are in Pacific Centre. With a choice of twelve 10 pack espresso capsules and three seasonal blends for less than $6; this machine used daily will easily ween you off the Starbucks habit and pay for itself in less than six months. It's a sexy conversation piece at your dinner parties and more than likely your friends will envy your Nespresso.

WINDMILL LIVING: Haddiscoe Island

2009-01-13T19:48:00.040-08:00

REDMILL, THE BROADS, October 2008 Helen and I needed a short mini-break from the crowds of London and we found this wonderful disused windmill on Haddiscoe Island on the Norfolk Broads available for hire by Daniel Webster of Listed Escape. http://www.listedescape.com/redmill. The Redmill ( originally the Langley Detached Drainage Mill on the OS map) was a 45 minute drive from the Regency town of Norwich and just over two hours train ride from London Liverpool Street Station. Without the benefit of a car we opted for a chauffeured limo service from Eastern Chauffeur with a great driver and owner of the company Patrick http://www.easternchauffeur.com/to take us out to the remote mill on Haddiscoe Island that surprisingly did not show up on the OS map or GPS. The Island covers just over 2000 acres of summer livestock pastures and grazing land. The unmarked meandering dirt road passes through a secession of locked and unlocked cattle gates taking the car journey close to 40 minutes to complete when abiding by the country code of closing and opening gates as you find them ; you never want bovines getting in the wrong field or on unlight roads at dusk!! In Norwich we picked up our week's worth of groceries and wine pre-ordered on line from Waitrose Supermarket http://www.waitrose.com/index.aspx Being fully stocked with food and drink we settled in for a week of reading, writing, eating, and walking with no contact from the outside world four miles away but separated by three rivers, no car, and minimal mobile coverage. The mill built in 1840 stands close to 60 feet high with three floors of accommodation. The fully featured kitchen had a freezer, fridge, microwave, gas hop, and an electric oven. The biggest drawback to country living was the lack of potable water. We brought just over 24 litres for drinking and cooking for seven days along with ten litres left by Daniel. Showers and shaves were always followed by the clean and energetic metallic aromas of the iron rich water pumped from the islands subsoil. Haddiscoe Island was flooded with saline and iron rich water back in 1953 necessitating the construction of mills like Redmill to keep the island flood free. Haddiscoe Island at one time supplied the London markets with an assortment of mushrooms; today the salty soil only makes it usable for cattle grazing, a bird sanctuary, and a habitat for playful mutjack deers. Norfolk is the land of "big sky" in other words very flat and on occasion windy. In hindsight we could have rented a boat and passed abit of time "ratty and moley style" cruising the rivers and popping into pubs by the riverside. I'll have fond memories of the peace and quiet, spending my 10th wedding anniversary with Helen in a special place, drinking peaty whiskey and lapsang souchong tea, and having some fine meals and wine in the countryside with sheep, birds (too many to name), Highland Scottish bulls, wild hares and rabbits, and Jersey cows. If you're an avid birder the nightly flights of birds from ocean to field was an amazing sight and sound. The Broads and Redmill are a magical place.

ESSENTIAL KIT Hunter Wellingtons

2009-01-13T12:45:00.028-08:00

I had my first pair of green wellies when I was five and have owned a pair on and off over the last twenty years. Last year when Helen and I stayed on the Langley Marshes on the Norfolk Broads we decided to invest in a new pair to deal with the wet, wind, and bovine droppings. After a considerable amount of research we decided on the Hunter Balmoral Neoprene model. They worked like a charm and on our return to Vancouver and the subsequent snowfall and slush they proved their value over again.
The specs are:
The sculptured boot top and contrasting piping gives a stylish design. Suitable for all seasons.
Upper : Vulcanised natural rubber construction, built on an orthopaedic last for the legendary Hunter fit
Outsole : A moulded sole from synthetic rubber with Blown EVA. Comes with a removal insole for adapting the boot fit between seasons
Lining : 3mm cellular Neoprene sponge imparts thermal insulation, keeping the feet cosy and comfortable in cold conditions
Footbed : Contoured insole with reinforced instep. Energy rebound in forepart and heel shock absorbing pads
Weight : 2050gms/pair (size 9)

http://www.hunterboots.com/1/Welcome-To-The-Home-Of-Hunter-Wellies.aspx

As iconic as wellies seem to England and the British their origins go back to the American owned North British Rubber Company of 1856. The company started off with a small work force of four and by 1875 had over 600 employees. World War 1 spurred the production of boots for the military campaigns in the flood bound trenches. The second world war saw the need for Wellington's, gas masks, belts, and life jackets. Hunter Boots were built for necessity not fashion until 1955 when the original green wellie came to life. It has been a part of the Glastonbury Festival crowd, the Royal family, farmers, and fashion icons ever since.

GREAT SHAVES - Vancouver

2009-01-13T12:40:00.014-08:00

I've been an old school brush and blade man made when comes to a shave since my early twenties. There's nothing like a warm scented creamy lather and sharp blade to start your morning. When I want to really relax a shave at Farzad’s Barbershop in Yaletown is the ultimate indulgence. The barbershop at 1208 Homer Street has been owned and operated by Farzad Salehi since 2006. The shop has an old clubby feel with dark walnut, leather chairs, and black and white tiled floor. With just two chairs you should make an appointment 604.408.0060. If you walk-in there's an LCD TV to watch along with a great selection of Brit magazines and newspapers to read. The Deluxe Hot Shave is $25. You'll get, a hot towel treatment, some pre-shave oil massaged into your skin, followed by a rich lather. They usually shave you twice with a straight blade for a baby bottom smooth feel; along with additional hot and ice cold towels to close up your freshly shaved pores. A soothing after shave balm is the final touch. A lovely 30 minute get away in Yaletown. Drop by have a shave then head off to Yaletown for a beer or glass of wine.

http://www.farzadsbarbershop.com/Welcome.html

BARS - London's Coolest Champagne Bar

2009-01-12T19:25:00.041-08:00

St. Pancreas International Train Station

Carry Bradshaw and friends; here's the ultimate girly drinking bar! Have a glass of Champagne, some oysters and caviar, then head off on the Eurostar to Paris to shop! Only prob! You're in NY and this is London! From its start in 1868 as a Victorian train storage shed to its current £800 million architectural restoration and face lift this is my favourite international train station. Champagne and trains the perfect pairing? On a chilly December afternoon we dropped by for a glass of bubble and some oysters. The bar, the longest in Europe (90 to 95 metres) was hopping with activity; single chatty girls, a corporate party, and the smart international train set waiting for departure. There is a choice of 16 Champagnes by the flute and a hand full of rare vintage bottles (Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 1988, Dom Pérignon enothèque 1993 and 1985, as well as smashing Krug 1976 ) . The intoxicating smell of a chilly English winter wind, diesel fuel, electrical current, and the honeyed nutty notes of a bottle of Krug were heavenly. Relax in the modern version of the vintage Pullman with deep, heated leather seats and surrounding rich wood fittings. Go early for the Krug Breakfast for Two: Scrambled eggs, black truffle & chives on toasted sour dough bread, tea or coffee, and glass of fresh blood orange juice along with a ½ Bottle Krug Grand Cuvee for £97.50. They also have by the bottle a couple of decent UK sparklers. As a wine professional it would have been lovely to have seen the addition of a smattering of non Champagne bubbles; Spanish and new world fizz; but there is no denying the charm and complexity of France's "chalk and chill" hallmark on the classic bubble. For the foodie St. Pancras will soon have a farmer's market mid 2009 so you can shop for farm fresh groceries on your way home after a glass of Champers. http://www.stpancras.com/drink/champagne-bar/

On January 20th 2009 St. Pancras Champagne Bar was voted best Champagne Bar in London at the Drinking Out Excellence Awards 2009 http://www.drinkingoutexcellence.co.uk/page/home.html